Runway review of the latest Spring/ Summer 2021 collection by French fashion designer Simon Porte Jacquemus.
Simon Porte Jacquemus is a fashion designer based in Paris who is known for his romantic and simple yet experiential designs. Reminiscent of his Spring 2020 runway where he had models walk down a lavender field, he invited 100 VIP guests to a golden wheatfield in Us, France, for his Spring/ Summer 2021 collection called L’Amour. The runway was made from 600 wooden planks where guests sat 6-meters apart on either side for social distancing. Romantic and nostalgic, it seemed appropriately made for the worldly yearnings throughout isolation - voyages, better days, simplicity and human connection.
Photo of female models at the Jacquemus S/S 21 fashion show - source
The colour palette was soft. Sage, ecru, black, and clay evoked calmness - colours that are easy to wear during and post-pandemic. The women’s collection was striking in their elegantly dishevelled look. Clothing was unbuttoned and twisted in creative ways to drape the body with cutout details. The overall silhouette was columnal, making the wearer look elongated through high and drop waists and straight tubular dresses.
A behind-the-scenes photo of male models for the Jacquemus S/S 21 fashion show - source
The men’s collection was evocative of the 80s with oversized shirts, pants and blazers. They also maintained the soothing colour palette but were simpler in their design compared to the females.
Overall, it was a great collection. However, I find that the menswear collection is too safe. Jacquemus has only ventured into menswear in 2018 and has built it based on his personal style as noted by Hypebeast. There is a clear difference in the stylistic choices made between the male and female designs. The more simplistic approach to his menswear is said to be because men shop for convenience and comfort, and are typically fearful of ridicule when trying new styles. However, Jacquemus is applauded for his efforts in challenging toxic masculinity by incorporating more colours, prints, and accessories that have more female connotations such as tiny crossbody purses.
I understand and appreciate these incorporations and the need for products that will sell, however, I find that it can be challenged further. European male fashion has not changed much since the 19th century - in reference to the suit, button-up shirts, and trousers that dominate men’s fashion globally.
Indonesian males wearing traditional sarongs - source
If we look at menswear from other cultures such as in Indonesia, men have worn sarongs - a tubular skirt that is wrapped around the hips. A sarong can also be worn by women making it a unisex garment. It is also worn in variations by other cultures throughout the Indian subcontinent, Southeast Asia, the Arabian Peninsula, Horn of Africa, East Africa, and on many Pacific islands. In fact, Ancient Egyptian men also wore skirts.
The diversity in the model casting is impeccable. However, I would be interested in seeing brawn models - male plus-size models.
So, why has men’s fashion become so homogenous? Is it due to the dominance of European culture? I am not calling Jacquemus out, plus it was a beautiful collection. But in general, the fashion industry can diversify their male clothing - especially as fashion leaders, influencing the next generation of fashion consumers.
Is it time for the male fashion industry to make an evolution?
Let us know in the comments below.
Thanks for reading.
A blog post by Jimmy Phung.
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